Hello
Remember how everyone went to a great effort to make their backyard long drops more homely? It was an excellent example of people doing it for themselves and using their imaginations to make the most of a bad situation.
Well, that same no 8 wire ingenuity combined with some expert knowledge has had us furiously thinking, here at the Home Energy Advice Centre, of little things that we all can do to make our homes that little bit warmer whilst waiting for the builders to do their stuff. They are mostly temporary measures, low cost and do not require a degree in DIY and may even cause outbreaks of laughter over the end result.
Please feel free to pass these ideas around and do send us your pictures of your creative draught stopping results and we will put the best up on our face book page. Please remember to also take photos of the cracks and gaps before commencing temporary repairs, so the EQC assessors know what your home looked like before you jazzed it up and if in doubt consult a professional before undertaking any repairs yourself. For rental properties we also recommend getting the approval of the landlord before undertaking any repairs.
At the end of this bulletin you will also find an update on the Community Energy Action’s Curtain Bank. Other topics covered over the next few weeks will include home heating options, how to save power and any relevant information we receive from other organisations about home energy use.
Draught Stopping
Under normal circumstances, the HEAC has an information sheet on permanent ways to draught stop around windows, doors, skirting boards (and this is still available if your home was undamaged in the earthquake). We also have information about insulation in general which can be found here.
But for many, right now, the biggest problem is what to do about those cracks around windows, doors and in the floor whilst waiting for permanent repairs to be done and below are ways to deal with this as well as our tips on how to minimise heat loss in general.
Large gaps
Remember if your home requires emergency repairs to make it weatherproof and will cost less than $2,000 to repair, you can organise for it to be repaired straight away. Visit EQC’s website www.eqc.govt.nzto see what records you need to keep to make sure you are reimbursed appropriately.
If your home is more seriously damaged and requires emergency repairs, you should contact EQC immediately on 0800 DAMAGE (0800 326 243) (international call +64 4 978 6400 or +64 4 978 6401) and they will arrange repairs.
For smaller and non structural damage/gaps read on for some DIY solutions
Walls, floorboards, skirting boards, around windows
The easiest and simplest way to deal with these cracks is to cover them using a tape such as Duct tape or Gaffer tape. Gaffer tape comes off without leaving a sticky residue and is also known as gun tape, riggers’ tape, hurricane tape or racers tape. Both adhere to surfaces well, come in a range of widths and can be easily removed when it comes time for more permanent repairs to be made. All you need is a pair of scissors to cut the tape to length and they are available from all good home depot stores. Silicone fillers and polyurethane foam have been promoted elsewhere as an option but we advise caution in using these products as they can make it difficult to undertake more permanent repairs at a later date and should only be used by a professional.
Cellotape and masking tape are too thin/not wide enough and will be difficult to remove.
Windows
• For windows that open, consider low cost, draught-proofing strips that adhere to the window frame, filling the gap between the window and the frame. Make sure your strip is the right size to fill the gap in your window. If the strip is too big it will get compressed and damaged and you may not be able to close the window. If it’s too small there will still be a gap. There are 2 main types:
- Self-adhesive foam strips – can be purchased from good home depots and come with instructions on how to install.
- V-seal – the seal shapes itself to the gap so also seals uneven gaps and is made from a durable plastic. Can be purchased online from Community Energy Action and also comes with instructions.
• For sliding sash windows it’s best to fit brush strips. Foam strips do not work well.
Curtains
Lined curtains and pelmets can significantly reduce heat loss through windows. The way in which curtains are hung, the materials used and how they are used will influence whether they are effective or not.
The diagram on the left (below) shows a poorly performing curtain system:
1. There is no effective seal between the lower part of the curtain and the window ledge. Air cooled by the cold window surface will drop, thus creating an air current that will draw warmer room air in at the top.
2. The curtains are hung with a simple rail/hanger and nothing prevents warm air from entering the top so a circulating air current is created. The window is fully exposed to room temperature warmth (and hence loses more heat), and the room is cooled.
3. Thin curtaining material allows air movement from the warm to the cool side (and vice versa).
The diagram on the right shows an effective system. The essential requirement is to create an almost still air zone between the curtain and the window.
1. The curtaining material is thick and lined. It is not essential to use thermal backing, and it is possible to reline curtains with another layer of material like calico. Extra linings trap air between the different layers of material, which in turn helps to reduce heat loss.
2. There is an effective sealing of the curtain against the window frames – at the top by a pelmet or closely fitting track and curtain up-rise, and at the bottom through close contact with the window ledge or (preferably) the curtains are full length and seal against the floor, or drops at least 10cm below the window sill. If you cannot add extra length to the curtain, use a window sausage (also known as a door sausage to close off the gap).
3. Pelmets provide a seal at the top of the curtain to prevent the convection process. Pelmets can be made of any material as long as it creates a barrier. They need to be fixed to the wall and reach to, or past, the top of the curtain. Temporary pelmets can be made from wood, cardboard, plastics, bubble wrap or even a thick scarf.
Within reason, keep curtains closed as long as possible in cold weather (and as long as the sun is not being prevented from shining through). In the evening pull curtains late afternoon to retain as much daytime heat as possible.
Ceilings
Repairs to ceilings should only be undertaken by a professional.
Doors
Gaps at the bottom of external doors should be fitted with hinged weather seals which seal the gap tightly when the door is closed. Gaps at the base of internal doors can be fitted with self adhesive brush strips or good old fashioned door snakes/sausages. Most keyholes can be fitted with a purpose-made cover that drops a metal disc over the keyhole and are available from most locksmiths and hardware stores.
It’s a good idea to draught proof inside doors if they lead to a room you don’t normally heat, like your spare room or kitchen.
Down lights
Many New Zealand homes have recessed down lights, which act like little chimneys as the light fitting allows a lot of warmed air to escape into the roof space. Lots of down lights in a house can result in a doubling of the heating load required to keep it warm.
We have written a separate information sheet about how to deal with downlights. Please contact us on 0800 355 588 to be emailed a copy.
Open fireplaces
If you are not using/can’t use your fireplace, then your chimney is a significant source of heat loss. Internally this draught can be blocked by either:
§ Placing a plastic bag filled with newspaper up into the opening of the fireplace but remember to leave a highly visible note next to it which reminds you to remove the bag before lighting the fire. J
§ cutting out a piece of cardboard the size of the opening of the fire place and secure/seal with tape.
Ceiling access hatches
Draught proofing your roof access will also help, since hot air rises and is lost into the cold space in the roof. Cold air can also blow in through the gaps around the access way. You can draught proof the hatch by using strip insulation, like you would on a door. Make sure that the hatch has insulation placed on top of it too.
The above tips are in most cases only temporary and are designed to help keep the heat in whilst waiting for a full assessment from EQC.
Next week we will provide some tips on what type of heater best suits your needs.
A message from Community Energy Action’s Curtain Bank
Our Curtain Bank remains closed as we do not have access to our curtains and sewing room. However if you have or know anyone with an urgent need for curtains, you can contact our Curtain Bank coordinator. Currently many of our regular drop-off points for curtains are closed but we have arranged for our bins to be stationed at private addresses if you wish to donate your old curtains for recycling. Please keep an eye on our website or follow us on Facebook to keep up to date.
Kind regards
Carolyn, Katie and Adam
Home Energy Advice Centre
Please feel free to forward this on to whoever you think might find it useful.
Limitation of Liability: The Home Energy Advice Centre provides generalised information and advice. The Home Energy Advice Centre is not responsible for the application of the principles in any particular case, as the contents of this project may need to be modified for the particular site and circumstances. Consumers should always ensure that they comply with any local body bylaws that pertain to any construction project and consult a qualified tradesperson where expert services are required.